CRF study of wave kinematics in front of coastal structures

James Sutherland*, Tom O'Donoghue

*Corresponding author for this work

Research output: Contribution to conferenceUnpublished paperpeer-review

2 Citations (Scopus)


Experiments carried out in a large coastal facility to measure water surface elevations and water particle velocities in front of different coastal structure models using a wide range of normally-incident and obliquely-incident, long-crested random seas are described. The chosen experimental parameters resulted in a wide range of wave-structure interaction, varying from almost full reflection to heavy breaking on the structure. Comparison of predicted and measured velocities in the frequency and time domains, have shown that a linear theory-based prediction method, developed previously for normally-incident waves, can be extended to obliquely-incident waves to yield good estimates of the velocity field in front of the structure. In practice, errors in the predicted velocities are more likely to result from poor definition of the reflection coefficient spectrum than from the limitations of linear wave theory.

Original languageEnglish
Number of pages10
Publication statusPublished - 1 Dec 1997
EventProceedings of the 1997 Coastal Dynamics Conference - Plymouth, UK
Duration: 1 Jun 19971 Jun 1997


ConferenceProceedings of the 1997 Coastal Dynamics Conference
CityPlymouth, UK


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