Sand transport under full-scale surface waves

Jolanthe J L M Schretlen, Jan S Ribberink, Tom O'Donoghue

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingPublished conference contribution


Coastal Dynamics 2009 - Impacts of Human Activities on Dynamic Coastal Processes - Tokyo, Japan, 7 – 11 September 2009

Existing models for wave-related (cross-shore) sand transport are primarily based on data from oscillatory flow tunnel experiments. However, theory and former experiments indicate that flow differences between full scale surface waves and oscillatory flow tunnels may have a substantial effect on the net sand transport. In this paper, high resolution measurements of both boundary layer flow characteristics and net sand transport rates under full scale surface waves are presented. These experiments were performed for different wave conditions with medium (D50 = 0.25 mm) and fine (D50 = 0.14 mm) sand. It is shown that, especially under sheet-flow conditions, small wave induced net currents are of large importance for sand transport rates.
Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationProceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2009
Subtitle of host publicationImpacts of Human Activities on Dynamic Coastal Processes
EditorsMizuguchi Masaru, Shinji Sato
Number of pages13
ISBN (Electronic)978-981-4466-95-0
ISBN (Print)978-981-4282-46-8
Publication statusPublished - 24 Oct 2009


  • sediment transport
  • surface waves
  • flow velocity
  • wave boundary layer
  • full-scale experiments


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